Ancient China

There are many factors that can influence sense of fashion in ancient China. The rise of different beliefs, religions, wars, and emperors’ personal like would change how people dress.

Beliefs and religions that influence fashion

The idea of filial piety has lasted for thousand years in China. This value is shown on ancient Chinese fashion. Before the formation of People of Republic China, Chinese people did not like to cut their hair, so both men and women would keep their long. The common belief of 孝 (filial piety) was that “The body, hair and skin, all have been received from the parents, and so one dare damage them.”  Only criminals would cut their hair short as one of the penalty they received, 髡首 (kun shou)

Buddhism arrived in China during late Han period, prompting the production Buddhist monks’ robes, as well as more formal embroidered. Significant animals, symmetries and lotus from Buddhism became dominated patterns in Northern and Southern Jin.

Confucianism had gained its influence in Song dynasty. Clothing for both men and women tended to become looser, more flowing, and modest than the styles of the Tang. Clothing was focusing simplicity, because modesty is an essential part of Confucianism.

The balance of Yin Yang and worship of nature can be found on dragon robe found in Ming dynasty.   The space around the dragons embroidered with other auspicious symbols, and the bottom hem showing ocean waves and the peak of Mt. Kunlun, the mountain at the center of the world. The background color of the robe indicated rank and lineage. Official court robes for empress were similar but decorated with phoenixes, the feminine Yin to the male Yang of the dragon. (decorative items showing both a dragon and a phoenix are wedding emblems.)

War elements in fashion

Clothes people wear can amplify prosperity or chaos of a dynasty.  Extravagant dresses women wore in Tang dynasty could be a perfect example of prosperity, while 胡服 (hu fu) mirrored battles happened during Spring and Autumn.

Spring and Autumn (770-480BCE).  胡人 (people who often ride on horses) resided in Zhao kingdom located in Norther Western part of China. Traditional Han costumes with dresses and ropes would not help 胡人 to ride horses. 胡服(hu fu)was introduced with   shorter upper garment, long pant, left lapel, and short sleeves to give convenience for soldiers. 胡服 was a product of wars.

The situation can also be the opposite, when clothes represented the dichotomous value of a time.

Simply looking at the dresses from Northern and Southern Jin, some may believe it is a peaceful age people lived in because clothes were loose and graceful. As facts, Northern and Southern had gone through countless wars. Men started to show their chest and wear gracefully to show their rebellion toward wars.

Personal preference of emperors that changed fashion among commoners

Golden Yellow became a unique color that only emperor would wear in Sui dynasty.  Such color later symbolized extreme power, and lasted for more than a thousand years.

Tang dynasty is known for its prosperity. Nobel women could wear dresses that show their chest and arms, such sexual openness showed some freedom that women had. It is the only dynasty in history that treasured plump body images. The phrase “拜倒在石榴裙下” (they threw themselves at her feet) was originated in Tang dynasty.  However, such openness was turned down at late Tang dynasty. The empire was facing its end, foot binding occurred. Men started to like tiny feet, because women would have to walk slowly and painfully. The idea of women should be subordinating was worsen. Foot binding had been a painful tradition that lasted for hundred years.

The Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368) Mongol Empire, conquered by Genghis Khan and ruled by his descendants. Mongol men wore loose robes similar to those of the Song period; horsemen wore shorter robes, trousers, and sturdy boots. Mongolians earned the empire by fighting on the horses. Such tradition had been kept. clothes were designed to be convenient for horse riding.

The Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) new rulers from northeast overthrew Ming dynasty. They preserved Manchu dress, and introduced new styles of clothing for officials. Manchurians women did not adopt foot binding because that be inconvenient to ride horses, but women had to wear a special high heel that could constrain them to walk like a lady. Women subordination had been preserved.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2S_ig60CRQ&feature=youtu.be